Antonella's Ristorante re-opened on Sept. 11. Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, the show has gone well for this friendly, value-priced Italian restaurant in San Jose's Rose Garden.

Every neighborhood would do well with such a restaurant. For families visiting the Rosicrucian Museum, within sight of Antonella's patio, it's an easy place to dine with kids. For wage slaves heading home, it's a takeout pizza parlor. For those looking to linger over a glass of wine and a huge bowl of linguine with clams, it's a place to be enjoyed.

The new owner, Lyle Koch, has continued Antonella's tradition of fine New York-style pizza. A dense but thin and chewy crust supports toppings like a mattress, not like a sponge. It also folds.

Antonella's basic pizza starts with a thin layer of slightly tangy, slightly fruity tomato sauce topped with mozzarella, provolone and Monterey Jack cheeses, baked in a brick-inlaid gas oven. It is $11.50 for the 12-inch, $13.50 for the 16-inch. For $1 each, 24 additional toppings range from anchovies to zucchini.

Single-serving 8-inch pizzas start with the four-cheese ($7.50), adding Parmesan to the above three. It was good, but all the cheeses melted together in a heap. To me this is a waste, like having a milkshake made of Neapolitan ice cream. The Margherita ($8) was better, with distinct pieces of fresh tomato slices baked into mozzarella with strands of basil and garlic.

Other pizzas in Antonella's line of ``gourmet individuals'' include shrimp and pesto ($9.50), Thai chicken with cilantro and carrot threads ($9) and fresh clam ($9.50).

House-made focaccia is topped with caramelized red onions and Parmesan cheese. The cakey bread inside is flecked discreetly with rosemary, not saddled with the usual rosemary overkill.

The small dining room seats 30, the tented patio 50 under heat lamps that may work all too well. In warm weather, side flaps open, but the barrel-vaulted tent keeps the patio in shade.

Chef Eric Smith, who worked with Koch at Scott's Seafood, does a fine version of fried calamari ($6.50). A good mix of tender tentacles and rings, lightly battered, emerges from the fryer just greasy enough. Lemon wedges and a spicy marinara sauce accompany.

The Caesar salad ($6.50) took liberties with chopped Romaine lettuce and bland slabs of Parmesan, but the garlicky house croutons perked it up.

There are lots of other salads, and marinated chicken breast or grilled salmon can be added to make them entree-sized for $3.50. The most likely candidates would be spinach salad with Hobbs pancetta ($6.50) or mixed baby greens with Gorgonzola ($6).

Tired of paying through the nose for pasta? Consider: fettuccine Alfredo ($8.50), penne primavera ($8.50), capellini with fresh tomatoes and basil ($7.50), spaghetti with meatballs ($10). At lunch, these mild meatballs make a very good sandwich ($7.50). Baseballs of ground beef and pork with a dash of oregano slide into Parmesan cheese and a simple tomato sauce slathered on fresh, house-made panini.

Linguine with clams ($12.50) was fully loaded with little Manila clams, most of which remained tender in a garlic and white wine sauce.

Most of Antonella's main courses get no more complicated than that. Familiar chicken dishes include roasted with Yukon gold mashed potatoes ($10.50) and Marsala with penne (11.50). For vegetarians, eggplant Parmesan ($9.50). For beef eaters, a New York steak with Gorgonzola mashed potatoes ($18.50) and lasagne with Bolognese sauce ($10.50). All entrees are available at lunch.

The short wine list is pedestrian, but most wines are available by the glass.

Pastries ($6), like the breads, are all housemade. You may have to wait a few minutes for the hazelnut-chocolate cake to reach its molten state, but then it oozes chocolate syrup at the touch of a fork. Nice with vanilla gelato. Also good, tiramisu is airy with lady fingers, mascarpone, espresso and shaved bittersweet chocolate.

Antonella's had been closed for more than a year, after a dispute between the previous partners. But now, the neighborhood is perking again with Torrefazione Italia coffee and espresso drinks.

Antonella's Ristorante

1701 Park Ave. (at Naglee), San Jose. (408) 279-4922

* * *

The Dish: Neighborhood pizza parlor with friendly service and follow-up by the owner. Comfort food in pleasant surroundings.

Price range: Lunch and dinner appetizers $2-$8, entrees $7.50-$18.50. Corkage $5.

Details: Wine and beer. Patio dining.

Pluses: Simplicity and value. Wonderful murals of fruit stands and Tuscany by John Ton.

Minuses: Salads, some dishes are dull.

Hours: Lunch and dinner 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; Fridays, lunch and dinner 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. On Saturdays, dinner 5-9:30 p.m. Sundays, dinner 5-9 p.m.

Restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously. The Mercury News pays for all meals.